Monday, May 3, 2010

Alabama Hills Anchor Maintenance

The Chief, an Eastside guy and SuperTopo poster is doing some much needed anchor replacement in the Alabama Hills.  Strong effort out of these guys!  We were glad to donate a custom Atom Smasher and extra beefy Bolt Bag to the cause.















Here is the link to the SuperTopo thread
The Chief writes:
Just completed another session with the following route anchors being upgraded:


THE WALNUT
 Nut 'n' Honey
 Macadamia

THE PISTACHIO
 Nutty Buddy

DXM WALL
 Tussin
 Boogie Boy
 Dextromethorhan
 44D
 Ghost Dance

NICE TOWER
 Full Moon
 Friday the 13th

SCHMALTZ
 Smutz
 Scmendrick
 Schmaltz
 Schmaltzie
 Shmuck
 Schmear

PILLAR OF TOTH
 Crone
 Hermit
 Magus
 Hanged Man

CATTLE POCKET FAR RIGHT
 The Slab Route


CATTLE POCKET
 Blackhawk Pinnacle
 Itty Bitty Tittie Committee
 Split

POODLE WALL
 Poodles Are People Too
 Poodles Chew
*Left the old original Double Drilled Angle Pins set up on Poodles Bite for old times sake. They are still solid and can easily be replaced when needed.

A couple of notes future First Ascentist:

 If you put in a squeeze job and are within 6 feet or so above an original Anchor, please use some common sense and remove the old one so as not to confuse the party on either route. Maybe throw in a bolt I guess for added protection.
 Think before you add in a new route. Squeeze jobs really look like shet and totally distract from the aestheticness of the original classic line.
 PEOPLE! PLEASE STOP TRing DIRECTLY OFF THE MUSSY's/SHUTS!
Still running into party's that do not know that they are not suppose to do so...."That's how we do it in the gym!"

Will return next late next week to finish off the North end and begin on the South end routes.
Thanks again for all the support from the ASCA, FISH and MMS.



At work on the DMX wall


Jamie at work on the Pillar of Toth

The Chief working on the Poodle Wall




The end of hard days results. Also the much appreciated donated bags from FISH.


PS: Had the following comment made to us as we returned to the truck from the P of Toth this morning:

"Those new anchors are so well camo painted that we past two different new sets and couldn't find em!"

That is a good thang!

38 Anchors Completed so far affecting 70 Routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.11c. Have a couple more to finish on the North Side of WPR before we move to the South Side.

Again, many thanks to Greg Barnes(ASCA), Dave Talsky(Mammoth Mountaineering Supply) and of course Russ Walling(FISH Products) for all their assistance in this much needed endeavor.

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